* Before the Shot
Learn your autofocus points: Don't rely on your camera to select an autofocus point because you'll end up with mostly blurry shots. Choosing your autofocus point is easy: select the point where you want the rider's head to be.
Turn on AI Servo: Your camera should have several autofocus modes. On Canons, you want to select "AI Servo", which tells your camera to keep focusing as your target moves.
==> 상황에 따라 틀리겠지만 갠적으로는 지나치게 AI Servo에 의존해서 촬영 하는거 비추입니다.
Shoot between f/4-f/5.6: I generally shoot between f/4 and f/5.6 when shooting head on, which I can select using either aperture-priority (Av) mode or manual (M) mode. This lets you focus on getting a good, collapsed depth of field that will make the rider stand out. You generally worry about shutter speed when you're trying to get spin-blurry wheels, but you can't see wheels spin head-on.
Shoot manual if your camera sucks: I try to shoot in manual mode as much as possible as my metering gets thrown off by the color of the rider's kit. The repeated action of a time trial makes it easy to dial in your aperture and shutter speed manually and then adjust every couple of riders or so. I'll usually shoot the first couple of riders in Aperture Priority mode and select the settings I like best.
Longer is better: The longer the focal length you can shoot with, the better you can collapse the depth of field in just around the rider. Ideally I would shoot with a 300mm, but all I can afford is a 70-200mm with a 1.4x extender. Any longer is probably too heavy to lug around, but if you're strong and burly, go for it.
If you have good fps, use it: My 40D shoots near 6 frames per second. I usually end up using all of this during time trials. Even if you're a master of getting the shot in focus, so many shots in my reel have to be tossed out because the rider chose to blink at that exact moment. I also find that either I or my camera loses track for a frame, so it's good to know that you have several other good frames available.
Try to find a part of the course where you're sure the rider will look up/lean: I have plenty of shots of helmet tops, which get to go right into the trash. Find a course feature that improves your odds, like a crest in the hill or a nice turn. Turns have a couple added bonuses: the rider will lean, which can make for a nice diagonal composition, and the rider has to follow a more defined line around the bend, which makes it easier to predict your composition.
Faster riders are much faster, be prepared: Riders like Dave Zabriskie are much faster and DZ in particular likes to go early. You'll get lulled by a bunch of slow riders and suddenly DZ will blow past you.
(Canon-specific) Lenses: The 70-200 f/4L lens is a fantastic, relatively low budget lens for shooting time trials. I now use a 70-200 f/2.8L IS for two reasons: image stabilization and the ability to still shoot at f/4 when using a 1.4x II extender. The f/2.8 + 1.4xII setup is about 5x as expensive and isn't 5x better than the 70-200 f/4L. If money is no object, go with a 300mm prime.
==> 장비야 뭐... -.- (반쯤 정신 놓은 50.8로 끝까지 버텨 볼 랍니다. ㅠ.ㅠ)
(Canon-specific) AF Selection Mode: The 30D and 40D both have an "AF Selection Mode" Custom Function. I use this to switch over my autofocus select to the little rocker button. This way I can change my autofocus point very quickly as I'm looking through the viewfinder. Often I've been able to take several different framings of a shot as the rider approaches.
출처: http://kwc.org/cycling/photography/cycling_photography_tips_shoot.html
==> 참고: Shooting cycling photographs with a Canon Digital Rebel
http://kwc.org/cycling/photography/shooting_cycling_photographs_w.html
Cycling 작가外:
1. Graham watson
홈피: http://www.grahamwatson.com/graham/about.html
책: http://www.amazon.com/Graham-Watson-Years-Cycling-Photography/dp/193138214X/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1281921045&sr=1-3
(전 오늘 하나 주문해 봤습니다. - 회사 책상 서랍에서 생각도 못했던 세종대왕님 몇 장 있길래... ㅎㅎ)
2. Velodramatic Cycling Photography
홈피: http://portfolio.velodramatic.com/p27190260
EXIF Viewer사진 크기802x538
3. 기타 등등...
Cycling 키워드 하나만으로도 무수히 많은 정보들이 있는 관계로 여기서 생략하고...
Note:
Learn your autofocus points: Don't rely on your camera to select an autofocus point because you'll end up with mostly blurry shots. Choosing your autofocus point is easy: select the point where you want the rider's head to be.
Turn on AI Servo: Your camera should have several autofocus modes. On Canons, you want to select "AI Servo", which tells your camera to keep focusing as your target moves.
==> 상황에 따라 틀리겠지만 갠적으로는 지나치게 AI Servo에 의존해서 촬영 하는거 비추입니다.
Shoot between f/4-f/5.6: I generally shoot between f/4 and f/5.6 when shooting head on, which I can select using either aperture-priority (Av) mode or manual (M) mode. This lets you focus on getting a good, collapsed depth of field that will make the rider stand out. You generally worry about shutter speed when you're trying to get spin-blurry wheels, but you can't see wheels spin head-on.
Shoot manual if your camera sucks: I try to shoot in manual mode as much as possible as my metering gets thrown off by the color of the rider's kit. The repeated action of a time trial makes it easy to dial in your aperture and shutter speed manually and then adjust every couple of riders or so. I'll usually shoot the first couple of riders in Aperture Priority mode and select the settings I like best.
Longer is better: The longer the focal length you can shoot with, the better you can collapse the depth of field in just around the rider. Ideally I would shoot with a 300mm, but all I can afford is a 70-200mm with a 1.4x extender. Any longer is probably too heavy to lug around, but if you're strong and burly, go for it.
If you have good fps, use it: My 40D shoots near 6 frames per second. I usually end up using all of this during time trials. Even if you're a master of getting the shot in focus, so many shots in my reel have to be tossed out because the rider chose to blink at that exact moment. I also find that either I or my camera loses track for a frame, so it's good to know that you have several other good frames available.
Try to find a part of the course where you're sure the rider will look up/lean: I have plenty of shots of helmet tops, which get to go right into the trash. Find a course feature that improves your odds, like a crest in the hill or a nice turn. Turns have a couple added bonuses: the rider will lean, which can make for a nice diagonal composition, and the rider has to follow a more defined line around the bend, which makes it easier to predict your composition.
Faster riders are much faster, be prepared: Riders like Dave Zabriskie are much faster and DZ in particular likes to go early. You'll get lulled by a bunch of slow riders and suddenly DZ will blow past you.
(Canon-specific) Lenses: The 70-200 f/4L lens is a fantastic, relatively low budget lens for shooting time trials. I now use a 70-200 f/2.8L IS for two reasons: image stabilization and the ability to still shoot at f/4 when using a 1.4x II extender. The f/2.8 + 1.4xII setup is about 5x as expensive and isn't 5x better than the 70-200 f/4L. If money is no object, go with a 300mm prime.
==> 장비야 뭐... -.- (반쯤 정신 놓은 50.8로 끝까지 버텨 볼 랍니다. ㅠ.ㅠ)
(Canon-specific) AF Selection Mode: The 30D and 40D both have an "AF Selection Mode" Custom Function. I use this to switch over my autofocus select to the little rocker button. This way I can change my autofocus point very quickly as I'm looking through the viewfinder. Often I've been able to take several different framings of a shot as the rider approaches.
출처: http://kwc.org/cycling/photography/cycling_photography_tips_shoot.html
==> 참고: Shooting cycling photographs with a Canon Digital Rebel
http://kwc.org/cycling/photography/shooting_cycling_photographs_w.html
Cycling 작가外:
1. Graham watson
홈피: http://www.grahamwatson.com/graham/about.html
책: http://www.amazon.com/Graham-Watson-Years-Cycling-Photography/dp/193138214X/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1281921045&sr=1-3
(전 오늘 하나 주문해 봤습니다. - 회사 책상 서랍에서 생각도 못했던 세종대왕님 몇 장 있길래... ㅎㅎ)
2. Velodramatic Cycling Photography
홈피: http://portfolio.velodramatic.com/p27190260
EXIF Viewer사진 크기802x538
3. 기타 등등...
Cycling 키워드 하나만으로도 무수히 많은 정보들이 있는 관계로 여기서 생략하고...
Note:
좋은정보 생유-